Seoul's Beauty in Stillness (Part 1): The Traditional Aesthetic
Even before I knew what it was, I was drawn to traditional Korean architecture and interior design.
At least, I think I must have been. How else, for instance, could I explain that when I first renovated and designed my bedroom as an adult, I went for colours like the ones shown here: pistachio green, white/cream/ivory, and natural wood tones? (Especially since, if you were to ask me at the time what my favourite colour, I would have actually said purple.)
Now, in all honesty, there is a lot about many different cultures' traditional design that I enjoy and appreciate, not least being stuff from my own Chinese background. However, what really caught my eye about Korean art, architecture and design is how understated a lot of it is.
Granted, I am very much aware that this is only a small, albeit significant, component of today's Korean culture; Seoul, no matter how many nods to its historical heritage it maintains, is still one of Asia's main metropolises. However, when I had the opportunity to travel to Seoul for the first time with my parents in the spring of 2016, I found a number of quiet places where, as indicated by the title, I found great beauty.
I anticipate that this will be a long-running series, but allow me to begin with some of my favourite traditional areas of Seoul: little pockets in which locals and tourists can escape from the city's hustle and bustle by paying some homage to the past.
Bukchon Hanok Village
If there's one must-do for visitors to Seoul who want a glimpse of traditional architecture, it's this one. Just a short walking distance away from Gyeongbokgung - the grand royal palace - and the Blue House - the official residence for the South Korean president, Bukchon Hanok Village was historically a prime piece of real estate: popular for the yangban (Korean aristocracy, comprised of both the intelligentsia and military officials) and their families due to its central location.
Nowadays, Bukchon Hanok Village continues to be a residential area, but a number of its inhabitants have capitalized on the large number of hanok (traditional Korean houses) and opened small shops, art galleries, and guesthouses catering to tourists seeking a taste of the traditional and historic (see above left).
(Of course, given its popularity as a tourist destination, there were numerous nods to modern-day Korean popular culture as well, including stores selling celebrity memorabilia and one optician's store that took advantage of the immense popularity of Song Joong Ki, lead actor in the megahit drama Descendants of the Sun, to promote its sunglasses.)
Modern concessions aside, however, Bukchon Hanok Village for me is not solely a glimpse into Korea's past intermingled with an ultra-modern city. Instead, when I was there, it felt oftentimes like an oasis. While there were a number of locations throughout the neighbourhood that were jam-packed and bustling with tourists, if I paced myself just right, I could sometimes find myself completely alone on a residential street.
My favourite thing about this place, though, was that there was so much to discover just by taking my time and absorbing it all. I really enjoyed just wandering around aimlessly, peeking down different alleys and into the hanok that were open to the public. On some occasions, I was even able to go inside and get a glimpse into the simple elegance that permeates modern hanok interior design.
The sense of stillness was also reinforced by numerous reminders to visitors to keep quiet out of respect to the residents who still called these hanok home - some more in-your-face than others. 😉
Namsangol Hanok Village
Although it is also known for its traditional Korean architecture, Namsangol Hanok Village is quite different from Bukchon Hanok Village. First of all, it is not a residential area; rather, Namsangol Hanok Village is more akin to a historical re-enactment site. The village contains five recreated hanok from the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1897), offering visitors a glimpse into how life would have looked back then - minus the ever-present modern skyscrapers in the background, of course.
Secondly, because it is not as well known as Bukchon (which features on many a "Must-Dos of Seoul" list of attractions for tourists), it is more quiet overall: good for introverts who want to look at hanok and traditional Korean culture without jostling through crowds.
In terms of personal preference, I enjoyed visiting Namsangol Hanok Village more than Bukchon Hanok Village. Because the hanok are all grouped relatively closely together, and the entire complex is public property so there is no fear of inadvertent trespassing, it was very easy to wander around. I scurried down many a side garden passage, ducked around many a hidden corner, and peeked inside many an open door or window to see everything there was to see.
A word of warning, though: it was really easy to get lost in Namsangol Hanok Village, and in hindsight, I am sure I must have appeared to simply vanish from my parents' sight numerous times while I was exploring. On a more positive note, however, I could also see this as a good place to find some private corner to sit and reflect - or, for the more rambunctious among my readers, play a round of hide-and-seek.
Namsangol Hanok Village also functions as a small nature oasis in the middle of Seoul: no easy feat just a stone's throw away from some of the city's busiest shopping districts (e.g. Dongdaemun and Myeongdong). Within the village's confines were also a garden - pond included - and a raised pavilion offering gorgeous views of the scenery.
Finally, for those who are seeking more of traditional Korean culture, Namsangol Hanok Village offers a variety of workshops and experiences for visitors. For a small fee, one could, among other things, try on a hanbok (traditional Korean costume), learn brush-and-ink calligraphy, or partake in a tea ceremony.
Korea House
Now for my actual favourite of the traditional pockets in Seoul I visited. Just around the corner from the entrance of Namsangol Hanok Village, Korea House predominantly functions as a restaurant, theatre, and cultural centre. Visitors here could watch traditional dance performances, or try royal cuisine: it doesn't come cheap, but is a once-in-a-lifetime experience for both locals and foreign tourists.
(On a side note: for those who love both Korean food and Korean television dramas, Korea House was one of a number of locations composited together to form Arirang, the restaurant serving high-end royal cuisine in Feast of the Gods.)
Perhaps, on a normal day, I would not have enjoyed my visit to Korea House as much as I did. As it turned out, I neither attended a theatrical performance nor ate in the restaurant. Instead, my time spent here was something of an anomaly, and also a great burst of luck. Upon our arrival, my parents and I were informed by some of the staff that the restaurant had been completely booked out for the day; a sign by the entrance clarified that Turkish diplomats were being hosted later on. However, the staff very kindly allowed for us to explore the grounds on our own, so long as we did not disturb the employees in their preparations.
Long story short: we had the entire complex to ourselves.
As you can see from the many photographs I took, the garden area and outbuildings in the back were a favourite place for my explorations. Because we were alone save for the occasional employee (gardeners on the grounds, and wait and kitchen staff in the main building), my time spent at Korea House was far more intimate than I could have imagined possible in Seoul.
Now, if only I could save up enough to actually splurge on a meal at the restaurant; royal cuisine is now officially on my bucket list of things I would like to try should I ever return to Korea.
What's Next?
Bukchon Hanok Village, Namsangol Hanok Village, and Korea House were, in my experience, all opportunities for me to find peace in the middle of the big city. There is something about the nature-inspired colours and clean lines of hanok that immediately demand silence and reverence; even without the signs asking for quiet in Bukchon, for example, I would have intuitively slowed down and taken my time seeing everything there was to see.
Traditional Korea, though, is not the only way in which I found "beauty in stillness". Up next: some of my favourite urban oases.
The above blog post is part of the ongoing series Beauty in Stillness, which looks at quiet locations in some of the world's busiest places. To access a master list for this and other series, click here.
Image Credits
All photographs (c) Kitty Na
At least, I think I must have been. How else, for instance, could I explain that when I first renovated and designed my bedroom as an adult, I went for colours like the ones shown here: pistachio green, white/cream/ivory, and natural wood tones? (Especially since, if you were to ask me at the time what my favourite colour, I would have actually said purple.)
Now, in all honesty, there is a lot about many different cultures' traditional design that I enjoy and appreciate, not least being stuff from my own Chinese background. However, what really caught my eye about Korean art, architecture and design is how understated a lot of it is.
Granted, I am very much aware that this is only a small, albeit significant, component of today's Korean culture; Seoul, no matter how many nods to its historical heritage it maintains, is still one of Asia's main metropolises. However, when I had the opportunity to travel to Seoul for the first time with my parents in the spring of 2016, I found a number of quiet places where, as indicated by the title, I found great beauty.
I anticipate that this will be a long-running series, but allow me to begin with some of my favourite traditional areas of Seoul: little pockets in which locals and tourists can escape from the city's hustle and bustle by paying some homage to the past.
Bukchon Hanok Village
If there's one must-do for visitors to Seoul who want a glimpse of traditional architecture, it's this one. Just a short walking distance away from Gyeongbokgung - the grand royal palace - and the Blue House - the official residence for the South Korean president, Bukchon Hanok Village was historically a prime piece of real estate: popular for the yangban (Korean aristocracy, comprised of both the intelligentsia and military officials) and their families due to its central location.
Nowadays, Bukchon Hanok Village continues to be a residential area, but a number of its inhabitants have capitalized on the large number of hanok (traditional Korean houses) and opened small shops, art galleries, and guesthouses catering to tourists seeking a taste of the traditional and historic (see above left).
(Of course, given its popularity as a tourist destination, there were numerous nods to modern-day Korean popular culture as well, including stores selling celebrity memorabilia and one optician's store that took advantage of the immense popularity of Song Joong Ki, lead actor in the megahit drama Descendants of the Sun, to promote its sunglasses.)
Modern concessions aside, however, Bukchon Hanok Village for me is not solely a glimpse into Korea's past intermingled with an ultra-modern city. Instead, when I was there, it felt oftentimes like an oasis. While there were a number of locations throughout the neighbourhood that were jam-packed and bustling with tourists, if I paced myself just right, I could sometimes find myself completely alone on a residential street.
My favourite thing about this place, though, was that there was so much to discover just by taking my time and absorbing it all. I really enjoyed just wandering around aimlessly, peeking down different alleys and into the hanok that were open to the public. On some occasions, I was even able to go inside and get a glimpse into the simple elegance that permeates modern hanok interior design.
The sense of stillness was also reinforced by numerous reminders to visitors to keep quiet out of respect to the residents who still called these hanok home - some more in-your-face than others. 😉
Namsangol Hanok Village
Although it is also known for its traditional Korean architecture, Namsangol Hanok Village is quite different from Bukchon Hanok Village. First of all, it is not a residential area; rather, Namsangol Hanok Village is more akin to a historical re-enactment site. The village contains five recreated hanok from the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1897), offering visitors a glimpse into how life would have looked back then - minus the ever-present modern skyscrapers in the background, of course.
Secondly, because it is not as well known as Bukchon (which features on many a "Must-Dos of Seoul" list of attractions for tourists), it is more quiet overall: good for introverts who want to look at hanok and traditional Korean culture without jostling through crowds.
In terms of personal preference, I enjoyed visiting Namsangol Hanok Village more than Bukchon Hanok Village. Because the hanok are all grouped relatively closely together, and the entire complex is public property so there is no fear of inadvertent trespassing, it was very easy to wander around. I scurried down many a side garden passage, ducked around many a hidden corner, and peeked inside many an open door or window to see everything there was to see.
A word of warning, though: it was really easy to get lost in Namsangol Hanok Village, and in hindsight, I am sure I must have appeared to simply vanish from my parents' sight numerous times while I was exploring. On a more positive note, however, I could also see this as a good place to find some private corner to sit and reflect - or, for the more rambunctious among my readers, play a round of hide-and-seek.
Namsangol Hanok Village also functions as a small nature oasis in the middle of Seoul: no easy feat just a stone's throw away from some of the city's busiest shopping districts (e.g. Dongdaemun and Myeongdong). Within the village's confines were also a garden - pond included - and a raised pavilion offering gorgeous views of the scenery.
Finally, for those who are seeking more of traditional Korean culture, Namsangol Hanok Village offers a variety of workshops and experiences for visitors. For a small fee, one could, among other things, try on a hanbok (traditional Korean costume), learn brush-and-ink calligraphy, or partake in a tea ceremony.
Korea House
Now for my actual favourite of the traditional pockets in Seoul I visited. Just around the corner from the entrance of Namsangol Hanok Village, Korea House predominantly functions as a restaurant, theatre, and cultural centre. Visitors here could watch traditional dance performances, or try royal cuisine: it doesn't come cheap, but is a once-in-a-lifetime experience for both locals and foreign tourists.
(On a side note: for those who love both Korean food and Korean television dramas, Korea House was one of a number of locations composited together to form Arirang, the restaurant serving high-end royal cuisine in Feast of the Gods.)
Perhaps, on a normal day, I would not have enjoyed my visit to Korea House as much as I did. As it turned out, I neither attended a theatrical performance nor ate in the restaurant. Instead, my time spent here was something of an anomaly, and also a great burst of luck. Upon our arrival, my parents and I were informed by some of the staff that the restaurant had been completely booked out for the day; a sign by the entrance clarified that Turkish diplomats were being hosted later on. However, the staff very kindly allowed for us to explore the grounds on our own, so long as we did not disturb the employees in their preparations.
Long story short: we had the entire complex to ourselves.
As you can see from the many photographs I took, the garden area and outbuildings in the back were a favourite place for my explorations. Because we were alone save for the occasional employee (gardeners on the grounds, and wait and kitchen staff in the main building), my time spent at Korea House was far more intimate than I could have imagined possible in Seoul.
Now, if only I could save up enough to actually splurge on a meal at the restaurant; royal cuisine is now officially on my bucket list of things I would like to try should I ever return to Korea.
What's Next?
Bukchon Hanok Village, Namsangol Hanok Village, and Korea House were, in my experience, all opportunities for me to find peace in the middle of the big city. There is something about the nature-inspired colours and clean lines of hanok that immediately demand silence and reverence; even without the signs asking for quiet in Bukchon, for example, I would have intuitively slowed down and taken my time seeing everything there was to see.
Traditional Korea, though, is not the only way in which I found "beauty in stillness". Up next: some of my favourite urban oases.
The above blog post is part of the ongoing series Beauty in Stillness, which looks at quiet locations in some of the world's busiest places. To access a master list for this and other series, click here.
Image Credits
All photographs (c) Kitty Na
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